The name “Desert of the Lions” might be misleading: it’s neither a desert nor home to any lions. Instead, this area is a lush coniferous forest. The term “desert” here refers to a wilderness far from civilization. As for the “lions,” there are two theories: it might refer to pumas that once lived here, or it could be linked to the surname León of two brothers who owned the land and supported the Carmelite order that had a monastery in the park. Despite any confusion the name might cause, this national park is a fantastic escape from Mexico City.
It’s surprising to realize that within this forested national park, featuring a monastery from the early 1600s at its heart, you’re still in Mexico City. The monastery itself is a historic highlight, surrounded by beautiful gardens and forests with ravines, streams, and waterfalls providing countless opportunities for exploration.
The park’s cool, moist climate is due to its high altitude, which is about 2,500 feet higher than most of Mexico City. Covering 4,610 acres, the highest point, Cerro San Miguel, reaches 12,434 feet above sea level.
When visiting Desierto de Los Leones, you can enjoy a range of activities like hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, and camping. Explore the Carmelite monastery at the park’s center, or attend one of the Sunday concerts sometimes held there. There are various dining options or you can enjoy a picnic on the grounds. Many cultural events here are free and open to the public, along with occasional sports activities like wild races, including the “Meta Desierto de Los Leones.”
Take the opportunity to explore the former Carmelite monastery, used from 1611 to 1845 by about 25 monks from the Order of Discalced Carmelites, who lived quietly and simply in contemplation. Discover the monks’ cells, the kitchen, dining area, library, guesthouse, laundry, orchard, and stables. Don’t miss the “Garden of Secrets,” a stunning garden surrounded by remains of the original enclosing wall. As you wander the nearby woods, you’ll find hermitages where monks once spent time alone.
The park offers numerous trails for hiking or biking, though most aren’t marked and cell phone service can be unreliable. It’s a good idea to download any trails you plan to follow in advance.
There are campgrounds where you can set up a tent or rent cabins nearby. For a hotel stay, check out accommodations in areas like Coyoacan, San Angel, or Santa Fe on the south side of Mexico City, which are about a 25 to 30-minute drive from the park.
Desierto de los Leones is located roughly 14 miles southwest of downtown Mexico City, in the borough of Cuajimalpa de Morelos. It takes about an hour to drive there. If you’re using public transport, take the metro to Barranca del Muerto station (line 7) and then a bus to Santa Rosa. Alternatively, you can go to San Angel and catch a registered taxi or Uber—just arrange for a pick-up time at the end of your day. You could also join an organized tour, with many including a stop at this park and a visit to another site, such as the Malinalco archaeological site in Morelos state.
Please note that there is no designated parking for people with disabilities and the parking lot has uneven cobblestone surfaces. While the former monastery has some ramps for wheelchair access, not all areas are accessible. The ramps may not adhere to width and angle guidelines. Additionally, there are no specifically designated restrooms for people with disabilities.
